Overview
A complete convertible top weatherstrip kit typically includes multiple components that work together to seal your convertible top to the body. Installing these components in the correct order is essential—each seal interfaces with adjacent seals, and installing out of sequence causes fitment problems and leaks.
This guide provides the Order of Operations for a complete convertible weatherstrip overhaul.
What's Typically Included in a Complete Kit
Most convertible weatherstrip kits contain some or all of these components:
| Component | Location | Function |
|---|---|---|
| Header Seal (Front Bow) | Top of windshield frame | Seals top to windshield |
| Pillar Post Seals (Pair) | A-pillars, adjacent to windshield | Seals top corners at windshield pillars |
| Roof Rail Seals (Multiple sections) | Side rails of convertible top frame | Seals sides where top meets door glass |
| Rear Bow Seal | Rear horizontal frame member | Seals rear of top to body |
| Quarter Window Seals | Rear quarter area (if equipped) | Seals rear side glass to top |
Pro Tip: Gather everything you need in one kit. For adhesive and tools, the Complete Installation Kit (GLK-1) contains the essentials for any weatherstrip project.
Before You Begin
Supplies Needed:
- Complete convertible weatherstrip kit
- 3M Black Weatherstrip Adhesive (GL-11)
- 7-Piece Trim & Pry Tool Set (GL-30)
- Nitrile Gloves (GL-10)
- Lacquer thinner / adhesive remover
- Clean rags
- Masking tape (for alignment marks)
- Retainer clips and rivets (as required)
Environment:
- Work in temperatures above 60°F (15°C)
- Avoid direct sunlight on adhesive
- Allow a full day for the complete installation
The Correct Order of Operations
⚠️ Critical: Following this sequence prevents fitment issues where seals must overlap or interface.
Phase 1: Complete Removal & Surface Prep
Before installing anything new, remove ALL old weatherstripping:
- Remove the header seal (front bow weatherstrip)
- Remove pillar post seals (both sides)
- Remove all roof rail sections (typically multiple pieces per side)
- Remove the rear bow seal
- Scrape all channels clean of old adhesive
- Clean all surfaces with lacquer thinner
- Allow to dry completely (15-30 minutes)
Note: Taking photos before removal helps with reassembly. Note which clips go where.
Phase 2: Install in This Sequence
Step 1: Header Seal (Front Bow) – FIRST
- The header seal establishes the reference point for all other seals
- Install centered, working outward
- The ends of the header seal will be overlapped by the front roof rail sections
- See: How to Install Convertible Top Header Seals
Step 2: Pillar Post Seals – SECOND
- Install the A-pillar seals on both sides
- These seals interface with the bottom corners of the header seal
- Ensure proper overlap at the header seal junction
- Apply extra adhesive at junction points
Step 3: Front Roof Rail Sections – THIRD
- These sections run from the header area rearward
- Install so they overlap the ends of the header seal (not butt up against)
- This overlap prevents water intrusion at the joint
- Work from front to rear on each side
Step 4: Center and Rear Roof Rail Sections – FOURTH
- Continue installing roof rail sections front-to-rear
- Each section should slightly overlap the previous one
- Apply adhesive at all overlap joints
- Ensure seals align with window glass travel path
Step 5: Rear Bow Seal – LAST
- The rear bow seal interfaces with the rear ends of the roof rail seals
- Position to overlap with roof rail seal ends
- See: How to Install Convertible Top Rear Bow Seals
Step 6: Quarter Window Seals (If Applicable)
- Install after roof rails but coordinate with rear bow seal
- Orientation varies by vehicle—refer to vehicle-specific instructions
Installation Summary Diagram
INSTALL ORDER (Front to Rear):
┌──────────────────────────────────┐
│ 1. HEADER SEAL (First) │ ← Start here
└──────────────────────────────────┘
│ │
┌──────┴──────┐ ┌──────┴──────┐
│ 2. PILLAR │ │ 2. PILLAR │
│ POST L │ │ POST R │
└──────┬──────┘ └──────┬──────┘
│ │
┌──────┴──────┐ ┌──────┴──────┐
│ 3. FRONT │ │ 3. FRONT │
│ ROOF RAIL L │ │ ROOF RAIL R │
└──────┬──────┘ └──────┬──────┘
│ │
┌──────┴──────┐ ┌──────┴──────┐
│ 4. CENTER │ │ 4. CENTER │
│ ROOF RAIL L │ │ ROOF RAIL R │
└──────┬──────┘ └──────┬──────┘
│ │
└────────┬──────────┘
│
┌──────────┴──────────┐
│ 5. REAR BOW SEAL │ ← Finish here
│ (Last) │
└─────────────────────┘
Critical Tips for Success
- Overlap joints correctly: Water flows downward. Upper seals should overlap lower seals so water sheds away from joints.
- Apply adhesive at ALL junction points: Where seals meet, add extra adhesive. These are prime leak points.
- Don't skip dry-fitting: Test-fit each piece before applying adhesive. Once glued, repositioning is difficult.
- Work one section at a time: Complete each seal fully before moving to the next. Don't jump around.
- Keep the top closed during cure: After completing installation, latch the top and leave closed for 24 hours. This allows adhesive to cure and seals to take their final compressed shape.
What to Expect After Installation
⚠️ Important Break-In Information:
Metro SUPERsoft rubber is designed slightly oversized for superior sealing. After a complete weatherstrip kit installation, expect:
- Increased effort to latch the top (1-2 weeks)
- Slight resistance when windows roll up against new seals
- Gradual improvement as rubber compresses and conforms
This is normal and indicates proper seal compression. Do NOT trim seals that feel "too tight"—they will break in.
Testing Your Installation
After 24-48 hours of cure time:
- Visual Inspection: Check all seals are firmly seated with no gaps
- Water Test: With top latched, spray with garden hose (avoid direct pressure at joints initially)
- Inspect Interior: Check for any water intrusion at header, pillars, and rear
- Address Leaks: Usually caused by insufficient adhesive at junction points
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Leak at header corners | Poor overlap with pillar seals | Re-seal junction with adhesive |
| Leak along roof rails | Seal not fully seated or gaps between sections | Press seal firmly; add adhesive at gaps |
| Top difficult to latch | Normal with new seals | Allow break-in time (1-2 weeks) |
| Seals not lining up | Installed out of sequence | May need to remove and reinstall in correct order |
| Bubbles in adhesive joint | Trapped air; adhesive not tacky when applied | Allow more tack time; press firmly |
Final Notes
A complete convertible weatherstrip installation is one of the most rewarding restoration tasks. Properly installed Metro Moulded seals will:
- Eliminate water leaks
- Reduce wind noise
- Improve climate control
- Protect your interior for years to come
Take your time, follow the sequence, and your convertible will be watertight.