Overview
Door bottom seals (like Metro's LP 104 series) attach to the bottom edge of the door and seal against the rocker panel or door sill. These seals prevent water, dust, and road debris from entering the cabin through the door bottom gap. Installation methods vary: some use rivets, some use adhesive, and some use a metal retaining strip.
LP 104 Series Guide
| Part Number | Style | Attachment Method |
|---|---|---|
| LP 104 | Standard extrusion | Glue-on or retainer |
| LP 104-A | With metal strip | Metal strip + rivets or screws |
| LP 104-B | Sold by the foot | Glue-on; cut to length |
| LP 104-F/FT | For coupes/Tudor sedans | Glue-on |
Tools & Materials Needed
- 3M Black Weatherstrip Adhesive (GL-11)
- Nitrile Gloves (GL-10)
- 7-Piece Trim & Pry Tool Set (GL-30)
- Rivet gun and rivets (if rivet-mounted)
- Drill with appropriate bit (for new rivet holes if needed)
- Clean rags and prep solvent
- Measuring tape and marker
Installation Steps
Step 1: Remove the Old Seal
- Open the door fully
- For riveted seals: Drill out old rivets from behind the door bottom
- For glued seals: Peel away carefully; use a trim tool to avoid damaging the door skin
- For metal strip retained: Remove screws or rivets holding the metal strip, then remove strip and seal together
Step 2: Prepare the Door Bottom
- This step is critical—clean all old adhesive, rust, and debris from the door bottom edge
- Use a wire brush for rust; treat with rust converter if necessary
- Wipe down with prep solvent
- Allow to dry completely
⚠️ Warning: Door bottoms are prone to rust. Inspect thoroughly and address any corrosion before installing the new seal. A rusty surface = seal failure.
Step 3: Measure and Cut (If Sold by the Foot)
- Measure the exact length of the door bottom
- Add 1/4" to each end for a snug fit
- Cut with sharp scissors or a razor blade
- Make clean, straight cuts—angled cuts cause gaps
Step 4: Dry-Fit the Seal
- Position the seal along the door bottom without adhesive
- Verify the sealing lip faces the correct direction (toward the rocker panel/sill)
- Check fit at both ends—seal should reach corner to corner
Installation by Mounting Type
For Glue-On Seals (LP 104, LP 104-B, LP 104-F):
- Apply a thin bead of 3M Black Weatherstrip Adhesive (GL-11) along the door bottom edge
- Wait 2–3 minutes until tacky
- Starting at one end, press the seal firmly into position
- Work across the door bottom, maintaining even pressure
- Apply extra adhesive at the corners/ends
- Hold in place for 30 seconds; use tape if needed while curing
For Rivet-On Seals (LP 104-A with Metal Strip):
- Position the seal with metal strip along the door bottom
- Align with existing rivet holes (or mark new hole locations at 4–6" intervals)
- Drill holes if needed (use appropriate size for your rivets)
- Install rivets from inside the door, working from one end to the other
- Apply adhesive along seal edges for enhanced water protection
Pro Tip: Even with rivets, apply small dots of adhesive between rivet points to prevent water wicking under the seal.
Step 5: Allow Cure Time
- Allow 24 hours for adhesive to fully cure
- Avoid slamming the door during this period
- Do not wash the vehicle for 48 hours
Final Inspection
- Close the door and check for even seal contact against the sill
- Look for gaps at the front (hinge side) and rear (latch side) ends
- The seal should compress slightly—if there's no contact, the seal may be positioned too high
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Seal doesn't contact sill | Seal positioned too high | Reposition lower on door bottom |
| Water leaks at corners | Ends not sealed | Apply extra adhesive at corners |
| Seal falls off | Poor surface prep | Remove, clean surface thoroughly, reinstall |
| Door won't close | Seal too thick | Allow break-in period (several days); SUPERsoft rubber will conform |
Jan 8, 2026