Overview
Roof pillar seals on 4-door hardtops run along the roof rail and create the critical seal between the roof structure and the window frames. One of the most common questions we receive is: "How do I make the 90-degree turn at the corners?" This guide explains exactly how to handle corners on both molded and non-molded seals.
Understanding Molded vs. Non-Molded Seals
| Seal Type | Corner Handling | Application |
|---|---|---|
| Molded Seals | Pre-formed 90° corners built in | Factory-style restoration; easiest install |
| Non-Molded (Extrusion) | No pre-formed corners; window frame creates the turn | Budget-friendly option; requires technique |
Tools & Materials Needed
- Complete Installation Kit (GLK-1)
- 3M Black Weatherstrip Adhesive (GL-11)
- 7-Piece Trim & Pry Tool Set (GL-30)
- Clean rags and prep solvent
- Razor blade or sharp scissors
Installation Steps
Step 1: Remove Old Roof Rail Seals
- Always start at the front (A-pillar area) and work toward the rear
- Gently peel the old seal out of the channel or off the mounting surface
- Remove any remaining clips or adhesive residue
Step 2: Prepare the Roof Rail Channel
- Clean the entire channel thoroughly—old adhesive is your enemy
- Use prep solvent and a clean rag
- Inspect for rust or debris; clean out any foreign material
- Allow to dry completely
Step 3: Dry-Fit Your New Seal
- Let the seal acclimate at room temperature if it was stored cold
- Position the seal in the channel without adhesive
- For non-molded seals: Note where the corners/pillars are located
🔑 The 90-Degree Corner Solution (Non-Molded Seals)
The most common question: "How do I make the turn without cutting a miter?"
Answer: You don't cut a 90-degree miter. Here's why:
On 4-door hardtops, the window frame itself forms the corner. The roof rail seal runs to the edge of the pillar, and the adjacent window frame seal picks up on the other side. The corner is created by:
- Running the roof rail seal snugly to the pillar edge
- The vertical window frame (B-pillar or C-pillar) sealing against the roof structure
- The rubber will naturally conform over time
If you have a non-molded extrusion:
- Cut the seal cleanly at each pillar point
- Do NOT attempt to bend the rubber 90 degrees—it will buckle and create leaks
- Ensure tight butted joints at pillar intersections
- Apply extra adhesive at corner joints for waterproofing
⚠️ Pro Tip: If your application requires a continuous seal with a corner, consider upgrading to a molded roof rail seal with pre-formed corners for the best results.
Step 4: Install the Seal
- Apply a thin bead of 3M Black Weatherstrip Adhesive (GL-11) inside the channel—not on the seal
- Start at the A-pillar (front) and work rearward
- Index any raised areas or tabs on the seal with corresponding features on the roof rail
- Press firmly and roll the seal into the channel
- At corners/pillar intersections, apply extra adhesive for a watertight joint
Step 5: Address the Corners
| Corner Location | Technique |
|---|---|
| A-Pillar (Front) | Seal end should fit snugly into the A-pillar area; may overlap with pillar post seal |
| B-Pillar (Center - 4-Door) | Butt the seal against the pillar; window frame creates vertical seal |
| C-Pillar (Rear) | Same as B-pillar; ensure tight fit to rear quarter window area |
Step 6: Final Inspection
- Close all doors and windows
- Visually inspect seal compression from inside the vehicle
- Look for gaps, especially at corners and joints
- Perform a water test before reinstalling headliner or trim (spray garden hose, check for leaks)
Break-In Period
New Metro SUPERsoft rubber seals may feel tight initially. This is normal. Allow several days of regular use for the rubber to compress and conform to the window frames. Doors or windows may feel slightly harder to close at first.