How to Install Roof Rail Seals

Applies to: Roof rail weatherstripping for hardtops—the seals that run along the roofline above the doors, typically pressing into a metal channel. Common on 2-door and 4-door hardtops from the 1950s-1980s.

What You'll Need

3M Black Weatherstrip Adhesive (GL-11)
Trim removal tools (GL-30)
Narrow flat-blade screwdriver (for cleaning channel)
Plastic scraper
Clean rags and rubbing alcohol
Painter's tape
Nitrile gloves (GL-10)

💡 Tip: Our Complete Installation Kit (GLK-1) includes adhesive, gloves, and trim tools—everything you need for this job.

⚠️ Critical Warning

Old material left in the roof rail channel WILL prevent proper fit. Take time to clean thoroughly—this is the #1 cause of roof rail seal problems.

Understanding Roof Rail Seals

Roof rail seals are different from door seals:

Feature	Door Seals	Roof Rail Seals
Attachment	Clips/pins around perimeter	Press into channel
Adhesive use	Between clips	Only at specific points
Installation direction	Around door opening	Front (A-pillar) to rear (C-pillar)
Main challenge	Clip alignment	Channel cleanliness

Where to Apply Adhesive

Do NOT apply adhesive along the entire length. Only use adhesive at these specific locations:

Location	Adhesive?	How Much
First 3" at A-pillar (front)	✅ Yes	Generous amount
Curve at A-pillar	✅ Yes	6" section
Main straight section	❌ NO	None—just press-fit
Curve at C-pillar	✅ Yes	6" section
Last 3" at C-pillar (rear)	✅ Yes	Generous amount
Retaining pins at ends	✅ Yes	If your seal has them

    A-PILLAR                                      C-PILLAR
    (FRONT)                                        (REAR)
       │                                              │
       ▼                                              ▼
    ┌──────┬─────────────────────────────────────┬──────┐
    │ GLUE │         NO ADHESIVE NEEDED          │ GLUE │
    │ 3"+6"│      (press-fit into channel)       │ 6"+3"│
    └──────┴─────────────────────────────────────┴──────┘
           ▲                                     ▲
        CURVES                                CURVES
       (6" glue)                             (6" glue)

Why no adhesive in the middle? The channel holds the seal securely. Adhesive in the straight section makes future removal difficult and isn't needed.

Step-by-Step Installation

1. REMOVE Old Seal

Start at the front (A-pillar)
Pull slowly to avoid damaging the channel
Note how the old seal was positioned

2. CLEAN THE CHANNEL (Critical!)

This step determines your success:

Use a narrow flat-blade screwdriver to scrape out the channel
Remove ALL old rubber, adhesive, and debris
Clean with rubbing alcohol
Let dry completely

⚠️ Don't skip this! Even small debris will prevent the new seal from seating properly and cause it to pop out.

3. DRY-FIT FIRST

Before using any adhesive:

Start at the A-pillar (front)
Feed weatherstrip into channel
Press firmly to seat
Work your way toward the C-pillar (rear)
Make sure the seal sits fully in the channel along the entire length

4. APPLY ADHESIVE at Key Points

Once you've confirmed proper fit:

Pull seal back at the A-pillar end (front 9")
Apply adhesive to channel at first 3" and 6" curve section
Also apply adhesive to the back of the seal in these areas
Wait 3-5 minutes until tacky
Press seal into channel firmly
Use painter's tape to hold while curing
Repeat at C-pillar end (rear 9")

5. INSTALL RETAINING PINS (If Equipped)

Some roof rail seals have retaining pins at the ends:

Insert pins into corresponding holes
These help anchor the ends and prevent "walking"
Apply a small amount of adhesive around pins

6. CURE

Avoid closing doors forcefully for 1 hour
Full cure: 24 hours
Remove painter's tape after cure

2-Door vs. 4-Door Hardtops

Vehicle Type	Roof Rail Configuration
2-Door Hardtop	Single continuous seal per side (driver/passenger)
4-Door Hardtop	May have separate front and rear sections with B-pillar transition

4-Door Hardtop Note: Pay special attention to where front and rear sections meet at the B-pillar. These transition points need proper alignment and may require adhesive.

Troubleshooting

Problem	Cause	Solution
Seal won't press into channel	Debris in channel	Clean channel more thoroughly
Seal pops out of channel	Old material in channel; no adhesive at ends	Clean channel; apply adhesive at A and C pillars
Seal "walks" toward front or rear	No retaining pins; ends not glued	Install pins if equipped; add adhesive at ends
Gaps at curves	Seal not seated at bends	Press firmly at curves; add adhesive at curve sections
Water leaks at A-pillar	Insufficient adhesive	Apply more adhesive at front 3" and curve
Seal looks wavy	Improper seating	Remove and reinstall, ensuring full channel contact
Front end keeps pulling out	High-stress area	Use generous adhesive; consider retaining pin

Pro Tips

Clean the channel twice—once to remove bulk material, again to get remaining residue
Start at the front—the A-pillar area is more visible and critical for water sealing
Adhesive at curves is essential—these areas see the most stress
Don't use adhesive in the straight section—it's unnecessary and makes future removal a nightmare
Painter's tape is your friend—use it to hold seal in position while adhesive cures
Work on a warm day—adhesive bonds better between 60-90°F

Common Questions

Q: My seal is slightly longer than the channel. What do I do?
A: Minor trimming at the rear (C-pillar) end is normal. Cut squarely with sharp scissors.

Q: The seal seems loose in the middle. Is that okay?
A: Yes, if it's seated in the channel. The channel itself holds the seal—no adhesive needed in the straight section.

Q: Can I reuse the old seal temporarily?
A: Old seals are usually compressed and won't seal properly. We don't recommend reusing them.

Q: Do I need to remove the door to install roof rail seals?
A: No. Roof rail seals install from above, into the channel along the roofline.

Jan 8, 2026