Overview
Many of our molded door seals and body weatherstripping products feature factory-style mounting clips built into the rubber. This leads to one of our most frequently asked questions:
"If the weatherstrip has clips, do I still need to use adhesive?"
The short answer: Yes. Here's why, and how to do it correctly.
How Clip-On Weatherstripping Works
Clip-on seals feature molded plastic or metal retaining clips spaced along the back of the rubber, typically every 3–6 inches. These clips snap into pre-drilled holes in your door or body frame, providing:
- Quick positioning during installation
- Mechanical attachment at clip locations
- Factory-correct appearance
However, clips alone are not sufficient for a complete seal.
Why Adhesive is Still Necessary
Problem: Gaps Between Clips
Even when all clips are properly engaged, the rubber between clip locations can:
- Lift away from the mounting surface
- Allow air infiltration (wind noise at highway speeds)
- Permit water intrusion during rain or car washes
- Vibrate loose over time from door slamming
Solution: Adhesive Between Clips
Applying small amounts of weatherstrip adhesive between each clip creates a continuous bond along the entire seal length. This eliminates:
- Gaps that cause whistling wind noise
- Water channels that lead to rust and interior leaks
- Seal movement that accelerates wear
The Correct Installation Method
What You'll Need
- 3M Black Weatherstrip Adhesive (GL-11) or Complete Installation Kit (GLK-1)
- 7-Piece Trim & Pry Tool Set (GL-30) for removing old seals
- Nitrile Gloves (GL-10)
- Clean rags and surface prep solvent (lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol)
Step-by-Step Process
1. Remove the Old Seal Completely
Use trim tools to release old clips. Scrape all old adhesive residue from the mounting surface. The surface must be clean and dry for new adhesive to bond properly.
2. Dry-Fit the New Seal
Position the new weatherstrip and engage all clips without adhesive. Check for:
- Correct orientation (Red dot = Driver/Left, Green dot = Passenger/Right)
- Proper alignment at corners
- All clips engaging correctly
3. Mark and Apply Adhesive
Remove the seal and apply small dots or short beads of adhesive:
- At each clip location (reinforces clip retention)
- Midway between each clip (eliminates gaps)
- At corners and ends (high-stress areas)
Do NOT apply a continuous bead—this wastes adhesive and makes repositioning impossible.
4. Install the Seal
Working in sections:
- Engage 2–3 clips
- Press rubber firmly onto adhesive points
- Move to next section
- Continue around entire perimeter
5. Final Pressing
After all clips are engaged, go back and firmly press the rubber between all clips to ensure good adhesive contact. Use a clean cloth or roller.
Adhesive Placement Quick Reference
| Weatherstrip Type | Clip Spacing | Adhesive Placement |
|---|---|---|
| Molded Door Seals | 4–6 inches | Dots between each clip + corners |
| Roof Rail Seals | 6–8 inches | Corners and ends primarily |
| Trunk Seals | Varies | Between clips + at splice point |
| Pillar Post Seals | 3–4 inches | Light application between clips |
Glue-On Only Weatherstripping
Some weatherstripping has no clips at all and relies entirely on adhesive. Common examples include:
- Trunk extrusions (sold by the foot)
- Universal door seals
- Glass setting rubber
- Hood-to-cowl seals
For these products, apply a thin, continuous bead of adhesive along the mounting surface. Work in manageable sections (12–18 inches) to prevent the adhesive from skinning over before you position the rubber.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
| Mistake | Why It's a Problem | Correct Approach |
|---|---|---|
| Skipping adhesive because "it has clips" | Gaps between clips cause leaks and noise | Always add adhesive between clips |
| Applying adhesive before dry-fitting | Can't reposition if alignment is wrong | Dry-fit first, then glue |
| Using too much adhesive | Messy, wasteful, harder to adjust | Small dots/beads only |
| Wrong adhesive type | Household adhesives fail outdoors | Use weatherstrip-specific adhesive like 3M |
| Not cleaning the surface | Adhesive won't bond to dirt, oil, or old glue | Prep surface with solvent |
What to Expect After Installation
New Metro SUPERsoft rubber is intentionally manufactured slightly larger than the original crushed seal. This ensures a proper seal—but means your doors may feel stiff to close for the first few days.
This is normal. The rubber needs a break-in period of approximately 3–7 days to compress and conform to your door's profile. During hot weather, this process accelerates. Avoid slamming doors excessively during break-in.
If doors remain difficult to close after two weeks, check for:
- Misaligned door hinges or striker
- Incorrect seal orientation
- Doubled-up old adhesive under new seal
Summary
| Seal Type | Use Clips? | Use Adhesive? |
|---|---|---|
| Clip-on molded seals | ✅ Yes | ✅ Yes (between clips) |
| Glue-on extrusions | ❌ No clips | ✅ Yes (continuous bead) |
| Universal "by-the-foot" rubber | ❌ No clips | ✅ Yes (continuous bead) |
Bottom Line: Whether your weatherstrip has clips or not, quality adhesive is essential for a professional, leak-free installation. Don't skip this step.